In the historic areas of Mouraria and Graça in Lisbon, intricately winding streets dwell under the shadow of St. George Castle, an air of transformation (and unmistakably, garlic) is palpable. Despite being an oft forgotten part of the city, the district is now witnessing rapid redevelopment, with ancient structures being refurbished, diverse communities establishing their base, and a wave of new eateries challenging the area’s notoriously rugged reputation. This part of the city is where fado, the signature music genre of Lisbon, originated in 19th century obscure taverns. It’s also one of the fortresses of the yearly St. Anthony festivities where the scent of grilled sardines dominates the street corners. A diverse demographic cohabit here, from the aging locals and new arrivals, to Portugal’s bohemians. This is where the city’s age-old flavor blend along with tantalizing proofs of the area’s ongoing evolution.